Buying at a US auction
We bid for you at American auctions, for cars and for motorhomes. The hard part is not winning a lot. It is reading the lot correctly before the bidding starts, because most of what is on offer reached the auction after an insurance claim.
An auction is not a cheaper dealer. It is a different kind of risk, and it is survivable only if you read the paperwork first.
What we do
Three things decide the whole lot
Clean, salvage, rebuilt, flood, fire, junk. A salvage brand means an insurer declared the vehicle a total loss or the damage crossed the state's threshold. A junk brand means the unit has no value except as parts or scrap and is not allowed back on the road. The brand follows the vehicle. It does not wash off with a repair.
"Run and Drive" at Copart means Copart verified that the unit started, could be put into gear and moved forward under its own power. It is not a statement that the vehicle is roadworthy, and not a promise that it will start again on collection day. "Engine Start" means only that it started and idled.
NHTSA estimates that more than 450,000 vehicles are sold in the United States every year with false odometer readings. Federal law requires the mileage to be disclosed in writing on the title, and vehicles from model year 2010 and older are exempt from that written disclosure. We compare the title figure with the history report before we bid.
Where the units actually come from
Copart reported that 79% of the vehicles it processed in its 2026 financial year came from insurance companies, and that the majority of those are total-loss, unrepairable or recovered-theft units. In the same year, buyers outside the United States took 38.2% of the units sold in the US. So the inventory is mostly damaged, and the competition for it is already international.
A good auction result is a lot you understood, not a lot you won cheaply.
Motorhomes and RVs at auction
What costs money besides the price
An auction price is never the number you pay. Expect, at least: a bidding fee, a loading or gate fee, storage from the day after the sale, and title processing. The amounts depend on the auction, the lot and the buyer account, they change, and we are not going to publish figures we cannot stand behind. We give you the number for your lot before you commit to it.
How it runs
A model, a budget, a use. Or a lot number you already found.
Title, damage, designations, history report. You get the ones worth a bid, and the reason the others were dropped.
In writing, with the total laid out: the bid, the auction costs and our commission.
If it goes past your ceiling, it goes to somebody else. If we win it, the purchase and the paperwork are completed in your name.
Sources for the figures on this page: NHTSA on odometer fraud, Copart's own lot designations and its 2026 annual report.
Send us the lot
A lot number, a link, or just the model you are hunting. We will tell you what the lot really is before anybody bids on it.